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The Drive To Be Seaworthy

Jenna Hetzell 鈥10 took the skills she learned as a 溏心vlog免费B站 rower and used them to build a local coffee roasting brand.

Jenna Hetzell '10 sitting on a pallet surrounded by burlap sacks of coffee beans at her Seaworthy Coffee Roasters location

It鈥檚 a sunny Saturday morning in West Kingston, R.I., and Jenna Hetzell 鈥10 is in her office. Burlap bags stuffed with green coffee beans from Honduras, Vietnam, and Brazil stand sentinel, and two rowing oars with blue and white blades hang on the wall overhead.

鈥淪o, this is it,鈥 she says, gesturing to the space around her. This is , a coffee roastery that aims to, as Hetzell puts it, 鈥済ive the people what they want.鈥 And what they want is a no-frills, smooth cup of coffee that tastes great.

Hetzell does this through slow roasting, a method that reduces acidity and leads to a smoother brew with less bitterness. 鈥淚t鈥檚 like cooking a steak slow or fast鈥 it鈥檚 gonna be different,鈥 she says. 鈥淭he aroma I get is richer because I鈥檓 slowing the whole process down; I鈥檓 not killing these beans; I鈥檓 preserving the flavor.鈥

She takes a scoop out of a bag of roasted beans and fills a black bag emblazoned with her logo, which includes a loop-to-loop rope knot. While Seaworthy is all about coffee, if you look at the details鈥攖he rowing oars, the knotted rope, the names of the coffee blends (Way Enough, Even Keel), and the intensity of the roaster herself鈥攜ou notice there鈥檚 something below the surface driving Hetzell鈥檚 operation. That something is rowing.

Hetzell dusts her hands on her sweater, which features a coffee bean catching a wave on a red surfboard and adjusts her glasses. She projects the aura of a scrappy entrepreneur, but you can also sense her inner athlete.

鈥淢y experience on the rowing team at 溏心vlog免费B站 from 2006 to 2010 was unbelievable,鈥 she says. 鈥淕oing from not knowing how to do it at all to becoming a championship rower in 2008 (first time in program history) and 2010, to becoming a coach who brings a team to the national championship (in 2013, 2016, and 2019)鈥攊t was wild. That鈥檚 what I love about rowing. You can join and become a fantastic rower.鈥

But becoming a champion rower and coach takes more than just passion鈥攊t requires logging data, tracking progress鈥 and a whole lot of self-discipline. And it鈥檚 not a stretch to say that learning to row, learning to roast coffee, and starting a business all require the same skill set.

After a decade of rowing and coaching, Hetzell got a job at Starbucks, where she learned how to grind espresso, pull a shot, and steam milk. 鈥淚t鈥檚 a lot like walking onto the rowing team,鈥 she says. 鈥淵ou have to learn fast, get into the system, and just start screwing up so you can get good at it.鈥

She fell hard for coffee and later worked with a local roaster before deciding it was time to get in the boat, push off, and start her own roasting company. 鈥淚 really felt called to this,鈥 she says. 鈥淚 felt about it the same way I felt about rowing, and that鈥檚 how I knew this was something I needed to do.鈥

And she鈥檚 done it. You can find her coffees at many Southern Rhode Island markets and eateries. Paula DiLullo, co-owner of the Beach Rose Cafe in Charlestown, serves Hetzell鈥檚 light-roast, Swiss water process decaf and a special dark roast named after the cafe.

鈥淛enna is energetic, passionate, professional, and very much like a scientist. She brought athletic discipline to her role as a roaster, with a laser focus on quality and taste,鈥 says DiLullo. 鈥淐ustomer feedback has been extraordinary. Most customers come here for the coffee.鈥

Hetzell believes her experience at 溏心vlog免费B站 helped her succeed.

鈥淭o be a championship-winning rower, you need to know how to track your data over the long term. Rowers are all about the numbers,鈥 she says. 鈥淭hat has influenced how I approach my coffee business. My wife was also a Division I athlete, and we run the company together, so we always joke that we run this coffee company like a Division I sport.鈥

鈥擥race Kelly

PHOTO: NORA LEWIS

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